Morocco:
West Atlas Bicycle Africa / Ibike Tours |
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Atlantic Coast: South to Essaouira, Agadir | ||
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From Safi to Essaouira, the road largely follows a Coastal ridge, broken by river valleys. One of the main detractors for this section is about have of the distance is paved by chip-seal, which creates a rough ride. The phase "broken by river valleys" signals some ups and downs, but there are long enough flat sections to find some rhythm at times. | |||
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An interesting characteristic of the ecology is went from sand savannah to forest abruptly. The edge of the forest can be see behind the camels. The forest stretched for about 15km (10 miles). | |||
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The
first view of Essaouira (pronounced "ṣ-Ṣwiṛa") is from a viewpoint on the highway that looks out over
the forest, town and ocean. There is a camel there to welcome guests. Until the 1960s, Essaouira was generally known by its Portuguese name, Mogador. This name might be a corruption of the older Berber name Amaqdūl that is mentioned by the 11th-century geographer al-Bakrī. Another explanation is during the Middle Ages, a Muslim saint named Sidi Mogdoul was buried in Essaouira, giving its the name "Mogador". |
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![]() ![]() Among the amusements available were camel rides on the beach. |
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At the northeast, the entrance to Essaouira's old walled city is through Bab (gate) Doukkala, and at the southwest via Place Moulay el Hassan. Except at Place Moulay el Hassan the ramparts are intact (restored) and majestic. With in the walls are the Kasbah, Medina, Mellal (Jewish quarter) (Jews once represented 40% of the city's population), Cathedral, Mosques, and plenty of souks (markets). |
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Long ago, just south of the current Place Moulay el Hassan, was Castelo Real of Mogador. It was constructed, in 1506, because of its location between Safi, an older Portuguese outpost and Agadir, which had just been established, in 1504. The building of the fortress was strongly opposed by local Berbers and Arabs. In mid-1510 it was taken over by Berbers, and in December 1510 the castle had to be abandoned and the garrison relocated at Safi. The Castelo Real was totally demolished in the 18th century following the plans to build the Essaouira city and fortifications by Sultan Sidi Mohammed ben Abdallah. The Sultan hired European consultants to construct a modern fortification. Originally called "Souira" ("the small fortress"), the name became "Es-Saouira" ("the beautifully designed"). | |||
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In place of Castelo Real of Mogador are the 18th-century fornications called the "Scala
del Mar" -- built by Genoese engineers. Though the name is unclear, scala
can mean ladder or staircase, in Italian. Part of the design of the Scala is arches, under which boats can pass, to be moored in a very protected harbor. From the time of its rebuilding by Muhammad III until the end of the nineteenth century, Essaouira served as Morocco's principal port, offering the goods of the caravan trade to the world. The route brought goods and slaves from sub-Saharan Africa to Timbuktu, then through the desert and over the Atlas mountains to Marrakech. The road from Marrakech to Essaouira is a straight line, explaining the king's choice of this port among the many that the Moroccan coast offers. During one period Essaouira was known as the "Port of Timbuktu." In the 19th century, Denmark, Britain, the Netherlands, France, Spain, Italy, Portugal and Brazil had consulates in Essaouira. |
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By the start of the 19th century, the population of Essaouira was majority Jewish. There were as many as 40 synagogues. | |||
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Most of the Mellah has crumbled. A prominent building that is being preserved is the house of Rabbi Hiam Pinto (1748–1845), a venerated rabbinical judge. It also served as his office, a synagogue and yeshiva (Jewish school). Although it looks very austere from the outside, there is open central column that pours natural light into much of the building. The building is open for visits. Of interest are the pulpit, men's worship room, women's worship room, sacred texts, and a still lit eternal light. Rabbi Pinto had four sons, and all followed in his footsteps. Rabbi Pinto is the focus of an annual pilgrimage to Essaouira that draws over a thousand participants. |
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The Community Synagogue (Slat Lkahal Synagogue), Rue du Mellah, opened in 1850. It was crecently restored. There were several more synagogues on Rue du Murdoch - the spaces have now been transformed into alternative uses. |
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The old city has the usual shopping streets. The street culture was refreshingly laid back. When you tier of that it is easy to branching off into the labyrinthine side streets and alleyways. Unlike large medinas like Fes and Marakech, it is unlikely that one would get hopelessly lost, but it is large enough to have an hour of adventure. | |||
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![]() Essaouira fish market has an inventory that is fresh from the sea, but it still smells like a fish market. (right) An orderly, colorful and well labeled spice shop provides an eduations, as well as an excellent photo opportunity. (far right) |
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![]() ![]() Moroccan cities are for cats. This one found a cart for his cat-nap. |
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In the region between Essaouira, Marrakech and Agadir there are approaching 20 million of
prickly-leafed Argan trees (above). They thrive in the arid climate where few
other plants could prosper. Argan oil is so versatile and valuable it’s likened
to ‘liquid gold’. With a wide variety of uses, both culinary and cosmetic, and a
long list of medicinal properties, the oil is an attractive commodity and the
rest of the world is catching on to its healing benefits. Exports more than
doubling between 2010-2015 to 700 tons. Even with increased supply, the increase
in demand pushed the wholesale price up to $20 a pound. Retail prices can exceed
10 times that amount. Stories, dating back to
the 13th century, explain that goats would eat the argan fruits,
locals later collecting their droppings to retrieve the argan nuts, which had
been conveniently softened by the animals’ stomach juices. This method saved on
labor by making the kernels easier to salvage, but the resulting oil had a
distinct stink to it. Today, argan oil production skips the goats’ intestines.
The work is done with the hands of tireless women. Argan nuts must be cracked
manually — attempts to mechanize the method have failed to keep the delicate
kernels intact. It takes 30kg of argan nuts, roughly the annual yield of one
tree and between 15 and 20 hours of hand processing to make 2 liters of cooking
oil or 1 liter of cosmetic oil. According to the International Development Research Centre (IDRC),
argan trees support the livelihoods of 3 million![]() |
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Heading south from Smimou the climbs ridges and drops into river valleys and repeats. With each cycle the land gets increasing arid and the vegetation is more sparse and smaller, expect for a zone of forest, which extends more than ten kilometers to the east, and in the bottom lands next to rivers. | |||
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As the climate becomes more arid, agriculture becomes more rare. The primary
economic activity is grazing, and that is restricted to goats.
The highest ridge is between Tamanar and Tamri, near Ait Oukkane and Afra. But the effort is not for nothing. |
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From Tamri to the outskirts of Agadir there is more great coastal views. | |||
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