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 Between the national highway and the Bani
River and Djenne seems to be mostly a flood plain. For most of the way
the road is built up on a causeway. At three place along the route the
earth rises enough to forms a low lying hill. On each hill is a large
village and in the center of each village is a classic Mali Sahel-style
mosque. As the road gets closer to the Bani River, the surround area
gets wetter and there are a couple of channels. The bird life gets
richer in this area. Where the channels pass under the road there are
bridges and weirs. The weirs form ponds and you can look down on them
and see that they are teaming with fish.
 The riverbank is another vestige of tourism culture with curio
kiosks and hustlers. The guys are there to help you get across the
river, arrange a guide and sell you and excursion. All of which are
worthy services, it is just the manner in which it plays out - though
admittedly it is much more laidback than what we encountered in Mopti.
A mid the more aggressive businessmen there are also a couple of
artisans practicing their craft at a leisurely pass. In time, when our
group had reassembled we arranged to cross the river by canoe. There
is a small motor ferry that can hold a couple of cars, but the
ferrymen didn't seem to want to be bothered by a dozen bicyclists. As
promised the boatmen got all of us, all of our bikes and all of our
stuff in to the boat and to the other side without anyone or anything
taking a swim.
   As the sun started to loose some of its intensity about four
o'clock in the afternoon we took a city tour with Amadou. Over the
next couple hours, as be explored Djenne, he explained Sudanese
architecture, Bambara, Bozo and Islamic cultural, the history of the
area, unfamiliar items in the market, and the women's cooperative.    
  The focal point of Djenne is it grand mosque.
The original Grand Mosque for Djenne was built on the outskirts of
town. The current Grand Mosque, in the very center of town was
built in 1906. Because the construction is clay the outer
surface is refurbished every year. The Djenne Mosque is the
archetype for the "Sahel style", of which variations can be found in a
150 km radius around Djenne.
 The
trained eye can distinguish older bricks, which are rounder and more
homogeneous, from new bricks, which are squarer and mixed with straw
and other materials to make them more durable.
Unfortunately, the elegance of the mosque is detracted
from by the millions of bit torn plastic littering
the city and gray water runs from many house down the narrow
alley-like streets of the city, but the people of Djenne have a pride,
dignity, and gentleness (and are very well dressed) that seems to let
them rise above the filth.
 Flash
backs of home (or not), a common evening activity is gathering around
the televison. It doesn't seem to matter too much what is on or
what language the broadcast is in. We were fortunate to be invited for tea at Amadou's
house. He invited some of his other friends over as well. For hours we
discussed things like education, courtship, parents, Islam and changes
in Malian culture and attitudes. Tea was served on the roof, under the
stars and involves the preparation of three shot glass size servings
of tea. The first is very strong, with very little sugar. The
successive rounds are increasingly weak, with increasingly more sugar.
It is said that the first is to remind you of hardship and death, the
second symbolizes life and the third is for love. |
Addendum: The alternative route is to
cross the
Bani River at Sofara and take the back roads
(sand) to Djenne. Of course when the roads are too sandy the prudent choice
to to hire a horse
cart -- don't be mistaken, this may not be synonymous with the most
comfortable choice.
The choice dinner restaurants in Djenne has
improved.
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cart -- don't be mistaken, this may not be synonymous with the most
comfortable choice.
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