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 Finally a little serious bike. The riding in Bamako and
to Koulikoro was seemingly so long ago that they feel like they were a
different trip. The countryside is a patchwork of farms, villages,
ponds and livestock. People walk down the road, sometime miles from
the last village and miles before the next, but looking perfectly
content, comfortable and at home. I suppose they are, but I can't guess where that home
specifically might be.
 In the villages the kids play. There is no play ground equipment,
no physical toys and no sports equipment, but the play goes on.
Occasionally a boy might have a stick and a wire hop to roll along.
Just by stopping and buying a soft drink a conversation with alight on
you as well.
 Midmorning we pass Hamdallay, which is a shadow of what it must
have been a century ago. In the 19th century, prior to the arrival of the French, when Segou
was powerful and practicing traditional religion, this was the center
of the Fulani's immerging Massina Islamic Empire and a center of
Islamic education at the time. It challenged the animist and spread
Islam around this region of the Sahel. Currently it is not even labeled on
most maps.
 Leaving the highway and a mile down the road are the charming tree
lined streets of Sofara, our destination. Adding to Sofara
uniqueness and character is it physical location at the confluences of Fulani, Dogon, Bella, Songhai and Boza
ethnic groups. They communicate with each other in the Bambara
language.
   
   A short little walk around the village took several hours
after we got done visiting, examining and asking questions about: the
three mosques (each with it own distinct congregation), a factory
making chairs for schools, pottery factory, still/winery, the market, shops,
family vegetable gardens and the house of a wealthy man. In between we
observed the paces of village life; buying, selling, fetching water
and fuel, preparing meals, transporting farm produce by donkey and
      people, kids playing and
neighbors meeting and
   sharing the news. It is a fascinating and
friendly microcosm.
     Of
course the day ended with another beautiful sunset. We had a
choice of locations for sleeping -- most people chose the roof.
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Addendum: It may depend upon how you see progress, but the quaint
tree-lined, dirt road through Sofara has given way to a broad, bare,
paved road. We were told that before the project there was a town meeting
and the town's people were given a choice. They chose to have the
trees removed in town.
There are still some trees along the approach road into town, but the town
center a significant chunk of shade.
Also new in 2009 was the
 President
Obama pagne (printed cloth) clothes.
Tasting the goods from the local beverage
factory.
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