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Pinar
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Vinales |
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  The
Botanic Garden was started by Caridad and Carmen's Chinese-Cuba father
in 1918, and they carried on his work for the next ninety year. The three of
them collected hundreds of species of endemic and exotic medical plants,
ornamentals, tropical fruits, food plants and spices, and an encyclopedic
knowledge of all of it. In part, it shows what Cuban agriculture could do if
they set their mind to it. At the end of the last end of the century, octogenarian, Caridad
Miranda (left, in 1998, and right), still lead tours and was locally known as the fruit lady.
Unfortunately, all three have now passed away. The project is now lead by an
adopted daughter, who is assisted by several guides.. |
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  Caridad and Carmen's house is on the property enveloped in greenery. It can be walked through and viewed. It has been kept pretty much as it was in the last century and reflect well the preference in furnishings and décor by many of their generation. |
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   The
public square used to be where people met and discussed the topic of the day. It
is still a place for congregating, but because this is the only place that most
people have access to the Internet, there are a lot of people but very little discussion.
Very few Cubans have access to the worldwide web at home or work, but the
national telecommunication company has wired a smattering of public place around
the country with Internet connected Wi-Fi. It is pay-as-you-go. The quality is
usually descent. Beginning in 2017, the government is beginning to license
individuals to have Wi-Fi at their residences. Because of the expense, the
expectation is that the first to use the service will be people who rent rooms
to foreigners. |
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 The
most elegant and prominent building at the central square is the church. It is
well maintained, but doesn't seem to be active as a church.Competing with Communism and Catholicism is entrepreneurism. This is on display at a street market a few blocks from the central square. Most of the product didn't seem to be directed at the Cuban consumer, and most of the shoppers didn't seem to be Cuban. |
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 The
are two side to Viñales, roughly main street and
the back streets. Like so much
with real estate, it is location, location, location. On main street, almost
ever store front has been converted in to a restaurant, bar, gift shop, or
lodging for tourist. The money doesn't filter back too many blocks. People
are successful with casa particulars off of main street, and there
are a few paladars, but mostly on the back streets is where you see the local town
life that has abandon main street. |
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| After visiting the garden and looking at the culture and economy of Viñales, it was past time for lunch. This was a bit of an education in Cuba’s two currency system. At the restaurant that are oriented towards tourist they only accepted CUC, which is tied to the US dollar so is essentially foreign currency. For five dollars you can get a meal of rice and chicken. A little further a field, in town, there are restaurant that are priced in Cuban pesos. For about a fifth as much you could get a meal of rice and chicken, with the added advantage of being able to watch the street life: students on their way, mothers and baby out on errands, older men bicycling to appointments and couple relaxing on a rocking chair. | ||
Beyond the old "village" boundaries of Viñales, it suburbs are developing and sprawling.
They lack a vision, design or plan. Stretching out along the main roads, each
plot is access by a separate, winding drive. Many of the sites are surrounded by
solid walls. The main road lacks pedestrian amenities for student heading to
school and others going to work or market. The linear layout and barriers defies
the easy formation of "community". As the development stretches further
and further, the residents are going to become increasingly motor-dependent and
isolated. |
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 At
the end of the full day visiting farms, gardens, markets, and schools, we returned back to where we started. |
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   Here
is a shout-out to our host in Viñales, Casa Dra. Alicia. Out of this simple
kitchen she produced some of the tastiest multi-course meals that you can
imagine. There were soups, sea food, vegetables, salads, rice and beans,
assorted chips, fresh fruit and fruit juice and marvelous desserts. The kitchen is similar to many we saw. Alicia also
makes a highly acclaimed mojito. And, she has a full time job as an
orthodontist. |
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In the evening there is the option to return to the town for a performance of culture and folklore: music, dance and culture. The were several cycles of Afro-Cuban drumming and dance, a guitar and singing solo of Spanish origins, and fashion show by local teenagers. Then everyone joined in the dance. Lots of good comradery (and local rum). |
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