Being that Ambato is a miniature of Quito, leaving Ambato has some of the same qualities as leaving Quito.  We had been spoiled by the low traffic volumes in the rural areas so there seemed like there was a lot of traffic, and to escape the built environment of the city there were quite a few small hills.

Beyond Salasaca both the traffic and the climbs diminished.  Salasaca is interesting in its own right.  It is another of Ecuador's pockets of indigenous culture.  Unlike most other places on the main road, there is still a strong tradition here of both men and women continuing to wear traditional clothing styles.  There is also a traditional crafts market and for reason that aren't apparent, other than a nice environment, there is a large store selling bonsai.

A country of contrast, a few kilometers down the road from traditional Salasaca is Pelileo, the jeans capitol of Ecuador.  In this relatively small town there are dozens of large jeans store.  As best I can tell, many are the outlet stores for the factories that are in the town.  The story is that you can get Levi's, Guess, Calvin Klein or whatever other band you want (not necessarily under license) for a fraction of the cost that they would be in the North America or Europe.

Beyond Pelilea, the road starts to follow the canyon of the Rio Patate and then the Rio Pastaza as they heads towards the Amazon.  It is a spectacular downhill ride.  Where the land is flat enough to cultivate there are large fruit orchards.  Generally the road traverses the side of the mountain, with a steep face above and a drop-off below.  Temperate and citrus fruit orchard are visible hundreds of feet below where the land flattens out near the bottom of the canyon.  As we approached Banos we should have also had spectacular views of the Tungurahua Volcano, but the weather didn't cooperate.  The cloud ceiling was too low.

Banos is set on the side of the Tungurahua Volcano, which has been active for the last few years.  For a couple years the entire town was evacuated and closed.  People have only been allowed back for less than a year.  Just as we came into town the sirens were blaring and people were streaming through the streets, which was a little alarming.  It turns out that it was only a drill and notices of the drill were posted all over town.  Now we know.

Banos is a tourist town.  While nowhere near as bad as I expected it to be, it is like stepping out of Ecuador.  But this is still Ecuador!  The restaurants are French, Italian, Mexican and the likes.  There is a pedestrian mall.  Internet cafes are easy to find.  There are multiple travel agencies on every block ready to sell rafting, hiking, horseback riding and hot springs excursions, and other kinds of very Northern amusements.

To its credit Banos has a beautiful setting and the architecture and scale of the town is in keeping with its setting.  During several hours of walking around town no one tried to hustle a tourist package on me and no children asked for any money or items (regalos).  Banos is a pleasant haven, but I was ready to get back to a less refined Ecuador.  To be fair, others in the group would have liked to have stayed longer.