If
you have a spare morning or afternoon, before, after or in between the tours, it
is an interesting excursion, generally by tram and foot. Carthage
is half-hour tram ride east of Tunis. You can't take a bike on the
tram. The excursion to Carthage is not on the core route of either of Ibike
Tunisia bicycle tour because generally it is not done by bicycle, and though its
primarily notoriety is from the Phoenician period, most of the ruins to be seen
are Roman. We see plenty of equal or better Roman ruins elsewhere on the
northern itinerary. That said, you can bicycle there (and back) along a
flat straight 15 km highway / causeway past a shallow lake and industrial area
-- it is a less than memorable ride. But should you be in Carthage with a
bicycle, it provides a fast and convenient way to get between the relatively
spread out sites.
Carthage’s history is steeped in legend,
likely more myth than reality. The Phoenicians, early Syrian/Lebanese merchants, began to
establish trading ports on the coast of Tunisia about 1100 BC. But it
wasn't until 814 BC that descendents of these early explorers established
Carthage. It is told that Dido, the sister of the Phoenician King
Pygmalion fled her brother and Tyre when she learned he had killed her
husband to gain his wealth. On the pretext of moving away from the sad
memory of her husband, she left Syria and traveled across the Mediterranean
to North Africa. Landing at present day Carthage, she struck a bargain with
the locals to have as much land as could be covered by an ox hide whereby
she cut the hide into very thin strips and surrounded a large hill that was
to be central Carthage. It was to rise in prominence and power, until
ultimately it eclipsed and outlasted the mother state -- Tyre gradually lost
ground to the Assyrians.
Carthage was a true Mediterranean power inevitably
abrading the other sea powers of the time, first Greece and then the Roman
Empire. Their conflicts with the latter led to the three Punic Wars from
263-146 BC. The first was relatively indecisive. The Second Punic War,
202 BC, gave us that
great story of the fabled Carthaginian general, Hannibal, who laid siege to
Rome after crossing the Alps with war elephants. Actually, not many of the
elephants survived the trip and Rome withstood the siege. Hannibal was
forced to return to defend Carthage and was ultimately defeated at the
Battle of Zama, 140km southwest of Carthage.
When Rome finally defeated Carthage, 146 BC, they
razed it to the ground and plowed it under with salt. While this was likely
to be literally true, the efficacy of rendering land infertile with salt is
speculative and was probably more symbolic than anything else.
Whatever the damage, it wasn't permanent. Julius Caesar
eventually rebuilt Carthage as a Roman City in 44 BC near the site of the
original city. Roman Carthage was a large city with a population of
300,000, covering a substantial area and it takes some walking to get from
site to site. It’s primarily these ruins that are currently a tourist destination
and not the Phoenician Carthage.

The
whole area of the ruins is a World heritage Site and one ticket buys
entrance to all the separate sites. We began our tour at the Sanctuary of Tophet where some believe children were sacrificed
to the gods Baal and Tanit. More than 20,000 urns filled with the ashes of
children have been excavated. Except for sort of a hodge-podge of stele,
some with the symbol of Tanit on them, there is not much is left to view, but the legend does
taint the feel of the place.

Carthage lies along the Gulf of Tunisia and
was focused on seagoing trade so it is not surprising that the ports of the
city were impressive. The military port had moorings for 220
ships in a
unique circular
design. The tilted mooring ramps all the boats to be dispatched
quickly. A models of the design is recreated in a small building on the site so you can
get a sense of the ruins outside.
The Paleo-Christian museum nearby was
closed for some reason, but we did wander through the foundation of an
ancient cathedral.
Juxtaposed
with all of this history is the Tennis Club of Carthage. With the BMWs
and SUVs park out front and young clientele dressed is new sport athletic
outfits we could have just time traveled to Wimbledon or Forest Hills.

We next climbed Brysa Hill (the original
area covered by Dido’s ox hide strips) where a museum has been erected next
to the massive, French built L’Acropolium (Cathedral of St. Louis) alongside
the ruins of
Punic
and Roman houses. The museum houses some interesting mosaics (an
intro to the ones we’ll see tomorrow at the Bardo Museum) and other objects
of art and daily life from the third to seventh centuries.
We spent a short time at a refurbished
Roman theater which has been put back into use and still more time at an
area where Roman villas once stood. This area has more structures extant so
you can better visualize what it might have looked like.
Some of the mosaic
floors are still in place and many others have been cut and are catalogued
and stacked inside one of the covered buildings. As we walked out we could
see a section of mosaic peeking up through the grass denoting much more
excavation that could be done in the future.
The views from these villas as
from Brysa Hill were stunning. On this bright sunny day the sweep of the
Mediterranean on three sides with distant mountains in the haze across the
bay amply demonstrated the attraction for the Phoenicians and the Romans.
Even today this is a distinctly upscale suburb of Tunis. Before leaving the
villas we searched out a mysterious bird call and finally flushed the
distinctive hoopoe-- having forgotten that it called its own name.
Our final site was the Antonine
Baths. The baths were monumental with much structure still intact. A display
gave an idea of what a massive building once stood here. It was the third
largest baths in the Roman Empire. The foundation we saw was massive; the
building itself would have rivaled the US Capitol.